After months of training, it was finally time for the Camino! Eleanor and I were on the same flight to Madrid. The flight was good, arriving at 5:30am. We then took a taxi to Sally's hotel for a bit of rest before our train ride to Oviedo, the beginning of the Primitivo path.
The pilgrimage for me began and ended with Mass at the cathedrals. The church in Oviedo was beautiful!
After Mass, I took my first photo with a shell. A shell is the traditional symbol of the Camino, and we'll use them as markers throughout our journey to make sure we stay on the correct path.
It's said that you must be humble on the Camino, or the Camino will humble you. All four of us experienced this personally. Halie's experience was first. We met up with her later that evening at the train station because her initial flight leg was cancelled and they re-routed her. Unfortunately, her bag didn't make the trip. It was still in Boston where she made a connection. Some wonderful locals helped Halie find the best stores to purchase a new backpack and all the basic essentials to get her through a few days of hiking.
My humbling experience came later that night. I got sick. Really sick. I was up all night expelling any food or liquid every 30 minutes. By morning, I could barely move. The other 3 had to start hiking the Camino without me while I took a cab to Grado. The gracious hosts at the alburgue allowed me in early to sleep until the pilgrims arrived. I couldn't eat anything, but I was gradually feeling better. By the next morning, I felt 70% and wanted to hike. Halie and I changed packs so I could carry her smaller weight of minimal items while she carried my 23 lb pack.
Albergues are the Spanish term for hostels. It's a large room of bunk beds where you pay for a bed. The bathroom facilities are often coed and shared. Stalls are the only means of privacy, so you exit the shower fully clothed.
The trail from Grado to Salas started uphill, and with a weak body, my pace was slower than the others. The ladies were gracious to stay with me. I enjoyed finally being on the trail, though. I tried to soak in all the views, sounds, smells, and feel of the cool morning breeze.
Our timing at the end of the rainy season meant we'd likely have several rain days. I expected that. What I didn't think about was all the mud we'd encounter. There was so much mud!
The terrain changed frequently from trail to gravel to asphalt. The uphill climbs were rewarded with breathtaking scenery!
As we passed through towns, the winding roads often had mirrors for motorists. We decided to take a reflective selfie.
Our Primitivo route included two regions of Spain: Asturias and Galacia. In Asturias, it's more mountainous with small villages. The shell markers were tpically on cement blocks with a yellow arrow. If there wasn't an arrow, the "bottom" of the shell (opposite the "fan") would face the direction of the path.
After walking 16 miles, we were completely exhausted. The albergue in Salas was such a welcome sight! I was feeling better, and actually getting hungry. I ordered a soup and bread from the owners and it was delicious!
At this hostel, we booked our first private room for just the 4 of us with our own private bath. It was the BEST! To make our evening even better, Halie's backpack was finally delivered.
The next morning, it took three attempts to leave. With our first attempt, we were 1.5 miles down the trail when Eleanor realized she left her necklace on the nightstand. We all walked back and it was still there! Our second attempt was only about a half mile away when Halie forgot her sunglasses on the table outside the building. Finally on our third attempt, we say a last goodbye to Salas and walk toward Tineo. Some of the hike reminded me of our Foothills Trail here in SC.
But then there are moments, like in this video, that remind me we are NOT in SC.
We emerged from the trail with a beautiful overlook of the valley. Another pilgrim was kind to take our photo.
I forgot to mention that pilgrims are supposed to carry a "passport" or "credential" with them as they journey along the Camino. You pick one up at your starting point, which was Oviedo for us, and collect stamps from the albergues and cafes you visit. Sometimes, these little churches in the villages also have stamps. For me, it was another reason to stop in, pray, and give thanks.
We continued on our way to Tineo and the views were simply spectacular! With the sights of goats, sounds of cowbells, and the smell of manure, I felt like I was finally on the Camino. I was also gaining an appetitle back and munched not only on my snacks, but also on some delicious cookies that Eleanor bought.
Once we arrived in Tieno, I attended Mass with another pilgrim, Juli. The priest gave us a special blessing, too. We ended the day at a nice hotel that had an albergue in the basement. It was the worst sleep I've had so far. Surprisingly, though, it didn't deprive me of the engergy I needed to keep going the next day. One of the many miracles of the Camino.
